Water heater leaking? Here's what to do first in Florida.

<ul><li>First priority: turn off the water heater's dedicated circuit breaker — never touch a wet electric appliance.</li><li>Second: close the cold-water supply shut-off valve on top of the tank (or the home's main water shut-off if there isn't a dedicated one).</li><li>Third: contain the water — towels, buckets, a wet-dry vac — to limit structural damage.</li><li>Where the leak is coming from determines what happens next: fittings and the drain valve are sometimes fixable; a T&P relief valve discharge needs a licensed evaluation; a leak from the tank body itself means the tank is failing and needs replacement.</li><li>An actively leaking tank is an emergency — delay increases the water damage risk significantly.</li><li>A properly installed drain pan with a drain line (required by Florida plumbing code) is the single best protection against a future tank failure becoming a major loss.</li></ul>

Not every leak has the same prognosis. Dry the area around the base of the tank and look carefully at four locations:

Supply and return line connections at the top. The fittings where the cold-water inlet and hot-water outlet connect to the tank can develop slow drips over time — especially in Florida's hard water areas where mineral buildup stresses connections. Visible moisture or corrosion at these fittings can sometimes be addressed by tightening or replacing the fitting.

The drain valve near the bottom of the tank. This valve (used for flushing sediment) can drip if it's partially open, if the washer is worn, or if the valve body has cracked. A dripping drain valve is one of the more straightforward fixes — a licensed plumber can replace the valve without a full tank replacement.

The T&P (temperature and pressure) relief valve on the side of the tank, typically with a discharge pipe running down the side. The T&P valve is a safety device: it opens automatically if the tank's temperature or pressure exceeds safe limits. A small amount of water in the discharge pipe or at the outlet is not always a crisis, but it should be evaluated promptly by a licensed plumber — it may indicate a failing valve, excessive pressure from the supply line, or a water temperature set too high. Do not cap or plug the T&P discharge.

The tank body itself. If water appears to be seeping from the tank's side, bottom, or from under it — and not from any fitting or valve — that is an internal leak. It means the steel tank has corroded through from the inside. This is not repairable. A tank that is leaking from its own body needs to be replaced.

The temperature and pressure relief valve is one of the most misunderstood components on a water heater. It's a safety device required by code, and it is supposed to open when either the temperature in the tank exceeds approximately 210°F or the pressure exceeds 150 psi — thresholds that indicate a dangerous condition.

When a T&P valve discharges water, it is doing its job. That sounds reassuring, but it also means something caused it to open, and that cause needs to be diagnosed. Common reasons include: the water temperature is set too high (most manufacturers and the DOE recommend 120°F — this also saves energy and prevents scalding); the supply-line pressure from the utility is too high and a pressure-reducing valve is needed; or thermal expansion from a closed plumbing system is building pressure inside the tank.

A T&P valve can also start to drip simply because it has aged, cycled open too many times, or the internal spring has weakened — in which case the valve itself needs to be replaced.

Never plug or obstruct the T&P discharge pipe. If the valve is discharging, have a licensed plumber evaluate the cause and replace the valve or address the underlying pressure condition. Ignoring a T&P discharge is a genuine safety risk.